Hello again! Welcome back to our Journal! Glad to have you here since we have been looking forward to filling you all in on the two-day workshop organized by the Vi de la Terra de Mallorca association which we were lucky enough to attend just last month.
The Workshop
Vi de la Tierra is a regulatory board concerned with protecting and recuperating the wide variety of autochthonous wine grapes native to Mallorca as well as organizing activities and events to promote local wineries. At LU·LES we are pleased to have had the opportunity to attend an introductory workshop to Mallorcan basketmaking, senalla Mallorquina, taught by artisan Guiem Cassellas at two organic wineries: Son Juliana in Santa Eugenia and Micro-winery Son Crespí in Santa Maria.
History of Mallorcan Basketmaking
The island of Mallorca, known mainly for its wonderful coastline, also has a rich tradition of artisanal handicrafts, which, once upon a time, provided the main economic lifeline for its inhabitants. Unfortunately, with the advent of globalization, the island’s handmade goods industry has become nearly obsolete.
One of our goals as a brand is to design and produce locally in order to incentivize and raise awareness about our remaining artisans and their work on the island.
In the 19th and 20th centuries, Mallorca, a renowned commercial and manufacturing center for leather where small workshops over time transformed into internationally recognized brands in the fashion industry, saw another type of artisanal production gain traction: Mallorcan basketmaking, otherwise known as obra de llatra, consists of weaving fan palm leaves into handmade accessories found nowhere else in the Mediterranean. To understand the importance of this craftwork, and, specifically, basketmaking in Mallorca and its impact on the rest of the world, one must turn to the municipality of Capdepera, where in 1899, the first and only cooperative was created which was dedicated exclusively to the commercialization of palm products.
Palm Harvesting and Treatment
Fan palm trees, otherwise known as margalló, are a native species to the Balearic Islands and grow in mountainous areas. Although the main reason for harvesting their leaves lies in their value for artisans, thinning the trees also aids in their growth and longevity. Using a unique drying process, the palm leaves, once picked and sorted, are placed in a sulphur oven, which is constructed from lime and sandstone. Over a metal grate, the fan palm leaves are deposited and for twelve days are dried and turned over hot sulphur which is introduced through a small opening at ground level. These essential first steps in basketmaking reduce in size, thin, whiten and increase ductility in the leaves. The leaves are left in the oven for 12 days and turned every three days.
Once dry, the embrinat is carried out, which consists of breaking down the leaves’ filaments into thin strands known as brins which will allow the later braiding of the llatra. The thinnest threads or brins are saved to use for brooms and brushes while the thicker strands, used in the weaving process, can also be used to make hats and bags. After selecting the choice strands, they are soaked in sea water or water with bleach in order to give them more flexibility and a whiter tone.
The Creation Process
The first step in bag assembly consists of weaving five palm strands while continuously adding new pieces to create the weave. When all of the braided sections with the desired shape and size are finished, they are sewn together with a needle and palm thread. From this painstaking artisanal process, a Mallorcan basket is made.
Thanks to Guiem’s thorough explanation of this process, we were able to craft our very own basket, and, here below, we are pleased to show you all the result:
We are extremely grateful to have been able to experience such a fun and enriching workshop, as well as learn about the history of artisanal products on our beloved island. We want to thank again Vi de la Terra de Mallorca, Guiem Cassellas, winery Son Juliana, and Micro-winery Son Crespí for making this all possible.
